It was just my second surf trip, so I cannot really identify myself as a "surfer" but here are some of the things I've learned during my last beach trip. Most of which I've concocted while floating on a surfboard. :-)
The Sea is a dangerous lover.
I think I am a child of the sea. Or the ocean. Either way, water is definitely my "element." I've always associated myself with it since I was a child. I love to swim (although technically I am no good at all), bathe, dance in the rain... everything that can involve being submerged in hydrogen dioxide. I wished so bad that we can become rich so my parents can afford having a pool in our backyard. And during vacations, I'd usually be the first one to pull off my clothes and run to the shore!
But as much as I am in love with it, the ocean scares me. The fear of drowning or being pulled down by either currents or sea creatures just freaks me out. There was a time when I was swimming alone and the sky started getting cloudier that I had to run as fast as I could to the shore. All the while I was picturing out the dozen stories I heard of people getting swallowed or being offered up to the sea. I just don't want to be one of them. Dark waters have always been in my nightmares.
But the next morning when the sea was friendlier and I was happily floating on my surfboard, a different lover showed its face. The sea was nicer and the waves less harsh. The way the water rolls and curls as it pursues the shore almost makes me want to cry. I never noticed it before, partly because other than riding a boat or staying on a surfboard, you would never really get a good view of the "back of the wave". The water illuminates in such a majestic fashion as it rolls itself down the sand. Amazing how nature works. All these scientists can explain what moves these waters to dance the way they do but I guess they can never really explain its true beauty. Even I am not in the position to do so. One just has to see it to believe it.
Out here you are so little, but so alive. So alone, but so connected at the same time.
Sometimes we think we're all this and all that but really we aren't. Nature always humbles you, especially the sea. No swimmer, no diver, no expert can outdo the ocean once it chooses to impose its power. We're all children once we're out here. We all breathe the same air, swim in the same waters, run through the same grains of sand. No matter how expensive your garb or gadgets may be, you'll all end up a wet and burnt. There's just no fighting it.
But then again, there is so much life! The sea inspires me, it almost always does. It ignites feelings of nostalgia, fear, love, longing and hope. Even when you are by the shore alone, you know it's not only you out there. Once you touch the waters, you are connected to almost everyone in the world. All the treasures, junk, funk and whatnots of every nation are dumped in this big ol' body of water.
The Waves will not stop for you.
I've described the way the waves look once they've gone pass you but let me tell you how they'll hit you. From afar, they can be deceiving. Most waves will taunt you but once they come, they're really nothing after all. Some look harmless but end up wiping you out. Others come successively but you can't give up. The big ones will be tough. You can either stay afloat and hope the damage won't kill you... or you can paddle your way through and ride. Making the experience worth your while.
There was this one wave that was pretty big for my level. I wasn't looking out since I had an instructor and at that point, I was pretty tired so I just asked him to give me one he thinks I can ride while I rested my head on the board and wallowed away.
As I reminisced about random things and watched the other surfers, I hear him shout out load, "paddle!" I figured it was just another wave but when I looked back, it was pretty titanic (or at least for me). I was scared. I knew I couldn't do it. I rode one just a little bit smaller and I failed. Lost my balance and scratched me knee. I was scared this one can do even bigger damage. But while I collected my thoughts he just kept shouting at me, "paddle!"
It's now do or die. If I let this one pass me by, I'd get hit pretty hard. I'll survive of course but it won't be entirely painless. Or I can rise through the challenge. So I paddled hard, looked forward and moved as fast I could. I can feel the water pushing me harder and faster and if I don't stand now, I won't get to stand ever. "Tayo!" was my cue and I rose. I was taken aback at first because I can see myself a few good feet above the water and probably a few more above the ground. I can hear the other surfers and locals cheering and our friends by the shore giving me their thumbs up! It was probably the best 8 seconds of the whole trip and I cannot believe I doubted myself.
When life hits you a big one, I guess you have no other choice but to paddle, rise and ride. It'll be all worth it in the end. :-)
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